Tuesday, 3 January 2012

Coorg, Not So Cool

Having lived in the himalayas for long, I always look down upon the charm associated with popular hill stations in India. But the thought of the chill, the fogginess that blurs the mountains and surrounds the atmosphere,and the trees and leaves with dew  drops make for an interesting hop to the misty mountain tops. One such place is Madikeri, a popular hill station in Coorg situated in the western ghats of southern karnataka make for a desirable destination if you are not living in the north during winters. The distance of 260 kms seems like a treat since you cross Mysore and Bylakuppe on the way. So you get to visit the cultural capital of Karnataka (Mysore) and Bylakuppe, a town in Kushalnagar and home to a large number of Tibetian refugees. Though it takes more than a couple of days to cover both of them, you might want to skip them while on your way to Coorg and only come back to them while you are returning from your city of spices (Madikeri/Kodagu).


Frankly, Madikeri is not the coldest town I know. Still you see the inhabitants packed with their leather jackets and warm shawls, complete with warm caps and scarfs to complete a wintry picture. Book a homestay well in advance if you plan to spend your budget/luxurious christmas vacation. There are plethora of homestays to chose from, rates differing from its distance from the city or comfort facilities. Also make sure that either the breakfast/dinner is complimentary, especially if you enjoy spiced up non-vegetarian food.

After you sprawl into the comfortable bed in your homestay, plan your itinerary in such a way that you don't waste your time visiting all the touristy locations in Coorg.Trust me, you can visit a Nanital or a Shimla and will get the same kind of waterfalls or sunrise/sunset arrangement. 

But travel to Coorg for its plantations; Coffee, Pepper and Vanilla plantations. Take a ride towards the talcauvery side, 30 kms away from Madikeri town to spot the spices in their unprocessed form. Stop to sip coffee at random places, especially if you spot small cafes belonging to the coffee board there. Buy from a range of spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, pepper, top it up with some home-made golden honey and fresh cherries. Don't forget to buy some vanilla if you are a fan of the essence of it in your dessert. 

On the way back, drop in at Bylakuppe to spot some intricate artwork around the splendidly well done buddha statues in the golden temple. You can actually take the day off, stay at a nearby guesthouse in Bylakuppe and come back the next day while sight-seeing mysore on the way. 

Trust me: If you're a man/woman of the mountains, Coorg can be a disappointment. But for others, it might as well be the shimla of the south. Plus, you might want to explore the rich cultural history of Coorg and the people, their bravado and the colorful festivals.

Come on a rainy day, Coorg might surprise you then :)

Sunday, 1 January 2012

Hampiness


If you call yourself a traveler, always travel alone. But sometimes, if you can't, don't forget to capture what you see; for it reflects your perspective of the place. Hampi, a small village in north karnataka is a stoner's paradise. Don't get me wrong, because this is a different kind of  dope. The local guide will tell you that the name itself invites you to come and explore the city of ruins. Dug out by the Archaeological Survey of India in 1970s, Hampi has traces of the Mohnjo-daro and Harappa dynasty. An arcade of stones, its ruins tell you a story of its diverse dynasties which ruled Hampi (13th to 16th century). The Hindu rulers or the Mughals, the persians and the chinese traders, they all left a mark on this heritage capital of Vijayanagar. From the Sasivekalu Ganesha to the Laxshmi Narshimha, the Vitthal Temple or the Monolithic Bull (Nandi), the majestic monuments built describe the expertise and rich technique of the crafstmen so much so that all these sculptures speak a language which holds its viewer in awe. 


All you need is a full 3-4 days in hand, a cycle/bike, a camera and charged batteries. No guide can explain what the city describes on its own.